The Technological Achievements of Ancient Weaving - Jacquard Machine

Source:   Date:2022/8/6 13:41:00

          Jacquard technology originated from the original waist machine cross stitch, and by the Han Dynasty, it had been used in diagonal and horizontal looms

          usually uses a foot pedal to control a heald (a device for lifting warp threads) to weave patterns. In order to weave patterns, it is necessary to increase the number of heald frames. Two heald frames can only weave plain weave, 3-4 heald frames can weave twill weave, and more than 5 heald frames can weave satin weave. Therefore, in order to weave complex and circular patterns, it is necessary to divide the warp yarn into more groups and gradually form a multi warp and multi warp pattern machine. According to the "Miscellaneous Records of Xijing", there was a woman named Chen Baoguang, a giant deer person, who weaved loose patterned silk fabrics with a "120 silk weaving machine". Weaving so many silk fabrics was very cumbersome. During the Three Kingdoms period, Ma Jun's "old silk weaving machine lost work and time was spent thinking about the transformation of the silk weaving machine", which changed from 60 silk fabrics to 12 silk fabrics. The method of tying silk fabrics and lifting flowers was used, which not only facilitated operation but also improved efficiency

The flower based jacquard machine appeared in the Eastern Han Dynasty, also known as Hualou. It is a representative of the achievements of ancient weaving technology in China. It stores the jacquard program using a thread patterning book, and then uses Quxian to pull the warp opening. Huaben is a set of programs on a jacquard machine that store pattern information. It is composed of foot threads representing warp threads and ear threads representing weft threads woven according to pattern requirements. When getting on the machine, the foot thread is connected to the fiber thread that raises the warp thread. At this time, pulling the foot thread on one side of the ear thread can play a role in raising the relevant warp thread. During weaving, two people work together, one person is a flower puller, sitting on a three foot high flower tower to pull flowers and carry a harness, while the other person steps on a pole to weave. In Wang Yi's "Ji Fu Fu" of the Eastern Han Dynasty, it is used to describe the scene of weavers and jacquards working together to operate jacquard machines, as "a slender and calm woman, swaying through the meridians, and looking up and looking up

Jacquard machines were later introduced to the West through the Silk Road, providing a new approach for the development of modern electronic computers

The Technological Achievements of Ancient Weaving - Jacquard Machine